Valtellina in a nutshell
Valtellina (Veltlin in German) is a long Alpine valley in the province of Sondrio, in Lombardy. Terraced vineyards climb the slope above the valley floor, and the towns sit at very different heights and in different side valleys. Tirano is the rail hub, where the Trenord train from Milan meets the Rhaetian Railway to Switzerland. Bormio has an old town, thermal baths and the road up to the Stelvio Pass. Livigno is reached by bus and mountain roads. Chiavenna and the Val di Mello are separate trips again. Treat them as building blocks, not as interchangeable station towns.
This guide covers the Bernina Express and its tickets, Tirano, Bormio and its two thermal systems, Livigno, skiing, the Stelvio Pass, Chiavenna, Val di Mello, wine, food, getting there from Milan, weather and where to stay. It is an independent site, not run by a tourism board, a railway, a ski area or a tour company. Prices are as listed in 2026 and they change. For the lake at the start of the valley, see Lake Como.
How the valley fits together
Four ways to build a trip.
Tirano and the Bernina line
From Tirano the red trains climb to Poschiavo, Alp Grüm and the Bernina Pass. St. Moritz is about 2 hours 15 minutes away, Chur about 4 hours, as a guide figure.
Bernina Express →Bormio and the high valleys
An old town, two thermal systems and a winter ski area, with the pass road to the Stelvio in summer. A bus from Tirano takes about an hour on one timetable example.
Bormio →Livigno
A separate ski and summer base with its own customs rules. There is no train: you take the bus from Bormio, or the road from Switzerland.
Livigno →Chiavenna, Val di Mello and wine
Chiavenna is its own area with a waterfall park. Val di Mello is a protected valley with car limits. The terraced vineyards are a theme that runs through the valley.
Wine →Our picks: Valtellina tours
A Bernina train ticket from Tirano, a spa near Bormio and a bike and wine ride in Sondrio.
Hand-picked tours, booked through GetYourGuide. Prices are indicative starting prices in euros (as of October 2026). Tap a tour for live availability and the current price in your currency.
Bernina Red Train return ticket, Tirano to St. Moritz
A return rail ticket with a timetable and a mini guide to the stops. No guide travels with you; food, drinks and the trip from Milan to Tirano are extra.
Check availability →
Bagni Vecchi thermal spa admission
Spa admission with bathrobe, towel and flip-flops.
Check availability →
Vintage bike ride with wine and food tasting in Sondrio
Bike hire and a route briefing, then four wines with rye bread, bresaola and local cheese at the producer. You ride on your own; no guide rides along.
Check availability →Valtellina tours and day trips
Bernina Express trips, wine experiences and day tours in and around Valtellina, with live prices and availability.
Plan your trip
Start with the list of things to do, then pick the pages you need.
Things to do in Valtellina
Twelve experiences, from the Bernina line to the terraced vineyards.
Tours compared
Self-organized day trips, the panoramic train and winery visits.
Bernina Express
Routes from Tirano, panoramic cars, regional trains and seating.
Bernina Express tickets
Fares in CHF, reservations, passes and what is optional.
Tirano
The basilica, the old town gates and the station area.
Bormio
Piazza del Kuerc, the old town and the Stelvio road.
Bormio thermal baths
Bormio Terme and QC compared, with 2026 prices.
Livigno
Customs rules, the tunnel, the lake and summer lifts.
Skiing
Bormio, Santa Caterina, Livigno, Aprica, Madesimo and Valmalenco.
Stelvio Pass
Driving, cycling and seasonal access from the Bormio side.
Chiavenna
Crotti, the Acquafraggia falls and the Val Bregaglia.
Val di Mello
Hiking, access rules and bouldering in a protected valley.
Wine
Nebbiolo, the five Superiore subzones and Sforzato.
Food
Pizzoccheri, bresaola, Bitto and Valtellina Casera.
Getting there
Trains from Milan, buses to Bormio and Livigno, and the passes.
Weather and best time
Which season suits which activity.
Where to stay
Tirano, Bormio, Livigno, Sondrio or Chiavenna as a base.
Good to know
Where older guides and old forum posts are out of date.
Regional trains need no reservation
The regional train from Tirano needs only a valid ticket. A seat reservation is optional and costs CHF 5 per person and direction in both classes. The panoramic cars of the Bernina Express do require a paid reservation.
Tickets and reservations →Two different spa systems in Bormio
Bormio Terme takes visitors without reservation until capacity is reached. QC is a separate offer with its own terms, and day guests start from €58 for 5 hours.
Compare the baths →Val di Mello has no shuttle
The old shuttle has not run since 2019. Car access is limited to 40 vehicles a day with a €12 tourist pass, and paid parking elsewhere is €10 per day. Walking in is free.
Val di Mello →Swiss customs after Livigno
Switzerland applies a value allowance of CHF 150 per person and day. Livigno's own tables differ from the Swiss customs figures in places, so check the Swiss rules before you cross.
Livigno →Summer skiing is not guaranteed
The Stelvio glacier ski season was announced for 30 May to 1 November 2026, but a heat-related safety break was reported on 17 August 2026. The pass road and the lifts follow different schedules.
Stelvio Pass →Announced works, autumn 2026
The Rhaetian Railway announced a diversion of trains 951 and 952 for 29 October to 13 November 2026. The Munt La Schera tunnel to Livigno has limited opening hours from 26 October to 7 November 2026. A new Tirano bypass on the SS38, 6.6 km long, opened to traffic on 4 August 2026, with remaining works planned until December.
Getting there →Valtellina: frequently asked questions
How do I get from Milan to Valtellina?
Trenord runs trains from Milano Centrale directly to Tirano in about 2 hours 30 minutes, with regular hourly departures. There is no direct train to Bormio or Livigno. From Tirano the Perego buses go to Bormio, and from Bormio to Livigno. The ordinary single fare is €6.20 for each of these two bus legs in the 2026/27 fare file. See getting there.
Do I have to reserve a seat on the Bernina train?
Not on the regional train. A valid ticket is enough, and a seat reservation is optional at CHF 5 per person and direction. The panoramic cars need a ticket and a paid reservation, even with a rail pass. Details are on the tickets page.
When is the best time to visit Valtellina?
It depends on the activity. Summer suits pass roads, lifts and hiking, winter suits skiing: Bormio announced its winter season for 4 December 2026 to 11 April 2027, without a snow guarantee. There is no single best month. See weather and best time.
Is Livigno duty-free?
Livigno is described as a customs-excluded area, and the allowances for taking goods out are limited. For example, Switzerland allows goods worth CHF 150 per person and day. This is not tax advice. The Livigno page lists the main figures.
Is Valtellina wine the same as Grüner Veltliner?
No. Grüner Veltliner is an Austrian white wine. Valtellina Superiore and Sforzato di Valtellina are red wines made from at least 90 percent Nebbiolo, which is called Chiavennasca locally. See the wine page.
Is visit-valtellina.org run by a tourism board or a railway?
No. This is an independent travel guide with no link to a tourism board, the Province of Sondrio, the Rhaetian Railway, Trenord, a ski area or any tour operator.